Wanstead Birder: Senegal - January 2024 - Day 3

Wednesday 23 October 2024

Senegal - January 2024 - Day 3 - Janjanbureh to Wassadou Camp

Another day, another new country. Despite this being a fairly short trip we had specifically asked to be taken to Senegal. Partly this was because this late in the season Egyptian Plover have essentially moved east and out of The Gambia, but also as we wanted to visit a new country - another list I'm afraid. It would take a full day of driving to get there and back from Janjanbureh, but it would still be worthwhile.

We did a spot of birding before breakfast at the camp, the highlight being an unphotographable Yellow-crowned Gonolek in the tangles of branches at the water's edge, before packing up and heading south-east. Once again lots of stops along the way, with great views of Beaudouin's Snake Eagle, Abyssinian Roller, Senegal Coucal, Yellow-billed Shrikes and much more besides.

Pied Crow

Beaudouin's Snake Eagle

Western Red-billed Hornbill

Yellow-billed Shrike

We crossed the border between Sabi and Velingara at about 11am. Despite there being nothing there there was nonetheless a border office and a lot of paperwork, as well as a passive-aggressive official who did not like my camera being on my shoulder. I don't think I initially understood what he was getting at, the border being nothing more than a chain across the road, but it was his job to make sure that this highly sensitive chain did not get photographed, and was determined to make it clear that this would be huge issue. After a few veiled threats I worked out what it was he was there to say, all very friendly in the sense of "I could make big trouble for you" friendly, and of course once he had buggered off I made sure to take a photo of the border anyway.

Paperwork done and we were free to cross the chain. Hurrah a new country! Within a few miles we had a list of around 20, but with many miles still to go we hoped to improve upon it. The route skirted around the eastern end the Gambia before heading north then south again on larger roads, you can see this on the map here, it's that final bit that looks like two sides of big triangle. We arrived at the Campement de Wassadou at around 3pm, and spent the next two hours exploring the area on foot before our scheduled boat trip in the early evening. We did a short circuit of the camp, but most of the time was spent sat on the bluff overlooking the river and scanning the water and the sky whilst having a nice cold drink and a banana. The undoubted highlights of this river-watch were our first sighting of Egyptian Plover flying downstream low to the water, and then of African Finfoot paddling across the Gambia River, both much-wanted species that are not always guaranteed. The full list is here.

As the day cooled we descended the steps and got into a small boat for a trip along the river looking for improved views of the Egyptian Plover which we hoped would be foraging or resting on one of the numerous sandbanks. As we had seen a bird flying south it made sense to go that way, and in any event you could not travel too far north as the river was clogged. This boat trip was simply brilliant - Adamawa Turtle Dove on the bank, Western Plantain-eaters, two more Finfoot, three species of Lapwing, a Greater Painted Snipe, around 50 Northern Carmine Bee-eaters, five species of Kingfisher including Giant Kingfisher, a Western Banded Snake-Eagle, and finally three Egyptian Plover. Unfortunately the Plover were not seen south of the camp, but a short distance north at the very end of our trip when as a last attempt we swung back past the camp to explore some sandbanks a little further up. There they were, but by this point it was virtually dark. Still, a magnificent experience, and whilst the drive had taken up a decent chunk of the day (it is about a 6-7 hour drive once you factor in numerous birding stops plus the border crossing).